Pivnica Čajkov
– Nitra, Slovakia
Marek Uhnák’s Stará Hora vineyard, with a winemaking history of 2,500 years, has something special to offer.
Located in the Slovakian Nitra region, about an hour from Bratislava, the dark red soil of Stará Hora was formed by a large wave of lava that cooled down over time. The vineyard sits on volcanic soil formed by the ancient Sitno Volcano, which once was the biggest in Europe. This land, known in folklore as the gateway to hell, provides the perfect terroir for Marek’s natural winemaking philosophy. His vineyard is a poetic and mystical place, where the porous, lightweight, red soil and ancient tuff layers tell stories of lava flows and ash deposits that have shaped the wine landscape.
The family-run winery has roots dating back to the 19th century, and Marek, an oenology graduate, has spent over 20 years evolving from ‘conventional’ to natural winemaking. At Stará Hora, heavy machinery is avoided to protect the integrity of the delicate volcanic soil. Instead, Marek relies on traditional methods, including wild yeast fermentations and minimal intervention, allowing the vines to root deeply into the tuff, absorbing minerals that contribute to the distinct flavors of his wines.
One of the highlights of Marek’s production is “The Godfather,” a super complex wine. This Pinot Gris is crafted from three different pickings. In his words: ‘Pinots are not traditional at all in Čajkov. They’re the legacy of the recent communist era, when many varieties were planted on large surfaces “just to see what sticks”. My ancestors were working on these vineyards, so they knew that Pinots work very well here, giving prime wines even in sub-prime years. The perfect terroir material. In the cellar, however, what a challenge! What a chameleon! Pinot can be a generous, cultured gentleman whose class & quick wit make him the most desirable of companions. But, he can also be a real… dick. (Pardon my French.) Arrogant, brazen, obstinate at times.’
With patience and skill, he transforms this “chameleon” into a wine that captures the soul of Čajkov village and the history of Slovakian winemaking.
The first pick, in early September, captures acidity with a short maceration on skins. The second pick, in late September, focuses on structure and balance, while the third, in mid-October, involves raisined grapes that bring concentrated terroir expression. The three wines are aged separately in old barrels, some with a natural flor developing on the surface, before being blended into a final harmonious version. This blend captures the essence of the Sitno terroir, offering a creamy, fresh, and fruity rosé with a subtle raisin finish.
Cultivation: 5 ha
Production: 20.000
Varieties: Pesecka Leanka, Pinot Gris, Blaufrankish, Alibernet, Devin
Approach: Natural, no machinery, wild yeast fermentations
Certifications: –
Sulfites added: depending on the need – from zero to 15 mg/l
